Barnard students have the unique opportunity to find a home in one of New York City’s most charming neighborhoods — Morningside Heights.
In this area anchored by small local businesses and long-standing establishments, visitors and residents alike can encounter writers nestled in dimly lit cafes, colonnades of cherry blossoms in bloom, and the fluffiest injera bread just around the nearest corner.
What follows is a guide to exploring this historic uptown district in less than 24 hours, including the best pizza places in the City.
10 a.m.: Grab a morning coffee and pastry
There’s no shortage of caffeine in Morningside Heights — especially when long-standing neighborhood favorites, such as Samad’s Gourmet, a bodega located on Broadway between 111th and 112th, serves an NYC classic — a bacon, egg, and cheese — with Lebanese flair. Everyone knows everyone here, and each customer is greeted like an old friend.
If you’re interested in sitting down, the warm interior of The Hungarian Pastry Shop (at the corner of 111th and Amsterdam) has remained the same since its opening in 1976 — as a haven for indulging in a morning coffee, paired with a piece of apricot carrot cake or cherry strudel. Their walls are adorned with book covers by loyal customers, motivating new generations of writers who hope to have their work displayed inside their favorite café. The lack of Wi-Fi has never stopped Barnard students from studying, playing chess, or gathering inside this beloved spot.
11 a.m.: Fall in love on Amsterdam Avenue
Amsterdam Avenue is lined with lots of monumental sights and community-building efforts. Directly across Amsterdam from the Hungarian Pastry Shop is Julia’s Garden, more formally known as the “Julia Gabriel People’s Garden.” This hidden gem, which is maintained by volunteers from the West 111th Street Block Association, is encased in flora and sprouting vegetables. Straight ahead is the Peace Fountain, a 40-foot-tall bronze sculpture of the Archangel Michael in the fight between good and evil. Next to the fountain, the Cathedral of St. John the Divine stands high — a spectacular showcase of Gothic Revival architecture in New York City.
1 p.m.: Find a knick-knack at Book Culture
When they are scrambling to find coursebooks at the start of each semester, students head to Book Culture, which opened in 1997.
Whether readers are interested in the classics or in purchasing a James Baldwin votive candle, they can visit either of the independent bookstore’s two locations — on West 112th between Broadway and Amsterdam or on the west side of Broadway at West 114th Street.
2 p.m.: Lunch, anyone?
Try a bánh mì, or Vietnamese sandwich, at Bánh, located on Amsterdam at 107th Street. Visit during the day to avoid the dinner rush and explore a menu full of exciting dishes, like turmeric-laced bánh or bún măng vịt — a tasty duck noodle soup with bamboo shoots.
Other neighborhood flagships include Milano Market, Koronet Pizza, Taqueria y Fonda La Mexicana, and Roti Roll — the latter for inexpensive vegan and vegetarian fillings that come in rolled Indian flatbread.
Take a Detour
3:30 p.m.: Treat yourself!
The next time you’re strolling down Broadway, visit Mondel Chocolates, a local institution established in 1943 at the corner of 114th Street. Over the years, it’s garnered famous clientele like Katharine Hepburn, who called Mondel’s her favorite chocolate store in the world. Try one of the shop’s classic Figaro truffles or almond turtles. A couple blocks down, on 112th Street, is Flowers by Valli — a small, Latino-run family business that sells a variety of fresh flowers, houseplants, and arrangements year-round.
4:30 p.m.: Stroll through Riverside Park
Take a break from the noise with a walk through these quiet, noncommercial blocks shaded by the green canopy of trees inside Riverside Park’s 222 acres.
Stretched along the Hudson, the park’s waterfront views are shared by bikers, runners, dog walkers, and readers who sprawl on the lush grass. The newly opened Ellington in the Park, located within the park at 105th Street, offers live music and seating overlooking the Hudson River — perfect for catching the sunset.
6 p.m.: Dinner
The flavors of Ethiopia and Eritrea are the stars in every dish at Massawa — the oldest African restaurant in New York City — located on Amsterdam at 121st Street.
With offerings from spicy lamb dishes to split pea shiro, this historic family-owned spot is ideal for an intimate dining experience under soft lights, colorful paintings, pottery, and textiles reflective of the port city of Massawa (also known as Mitsiwa) in Eritrea, Africa.
Diners shouldn’t leave without trying Massawa’s fresh and fluffy injera bread — perhaps the best in the City.
8 p.m.: Jazz and drinks
The best jazz isn’t found only in Greenwich Village.
Located on Broadway near 106th, Smoke offers plenty — dinner, drinks, and world-renowned jazz musicians like George Cables, Billy Hart, and Cynthia Scott, seven nights a week.
The sound of trumpets and saxophones ring through the performance room, with its ornate red velvet decor, exposed brick, and crystal chandeliers.
Although the jazz club was shuttered during the early days of the pandemic, its newly renovated space has returned it to the community in full swing. Make sure to book a reservation in advance to catch one of their sets.
— PHOTOS AND REPORTING BY TARA TERRANOVA ’25
